Some advice from the ladies

This has nothing to do with Italy or France. It’s just a musing of mine on this post-election morning.

Today, as happens on many days, I looked in the mirror only to realize that I’m one day older. This aging thing—let’s call it ongoing maturation—is a constant, and it does encourage one to look for examples of how it might be done with more grace and meaning.

Since 2005, when Janet Champ and I wrote and published our book on aging, Ripe, I’ve been “collecting” women I admire. I bring them into myself by drawing them in their older age. Then, I tuck them into the back of my head, and pull them out when the occasion calls for support. Politicians have their lawyers. I have my secret army of smart females. Since Obama was supported largely by women, I thought I would ask some members of my supporting, advance team to give him some advice on the years ahead. This is what they had to say:

Toni Morrison on holding office: “As you enter positions of trust and power, dream a little before you think.”

Jane Goodall on negotiation: “Change happens by listening and then starting a dialogue with the people who are doing something you don’t believe is right.”

Josephine Baker on foreign policy: “I like Frenchmen very much, because even when they insult you they do it so nicely.”

Susan Sontag on climate change: “Anything in history or nature that can be described as changing steadily can be seen as heading toward catastrophe.”

Julia Child on delivering the State of the Union address: “Drama is very important in life: You have to come on with a bang. You never want to go out with a whimper. Everything can have drama if it’s done right. Even a pancake.”

Diana Vreeland on style and the veto: “Elegance is innate. It has nothing to do with being well dressed. Elegance is refusal.”

 

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La Cartoleria

I have always loved paper, and most things made of paper. I love all weights and textures of the wood-pulp wonder. I love different configurations of rules, margins, grids and holes. I love binders and boxes and envelopes. I love paperclips and staples and grommets. Needless to say, then, I also love the Italian cartoleria, or stationer’s shop, where all these things are available, still today, in the ever more paperless 21st Century.

When paper is gone, totally gone, this beautiful mail slot will be but a vestigial reminder, a decorative opening for peeking into. But nothing will be inserted into it, or stuffed through, left to fall satisfactorily—thud—on the other side in a random heap to be sorted by the building’s custodian.

When paper is gone, my books will be lonely. My handwriting will deteriorate completely, as it’s been doing for sometime now already. (Those typing fingers don’t form beautiful cursive letters anymore. They are messy and impatient.) When paper is gone, what will happen to pen and ink? To color? It’s much too dreadful a thought. Perhaps it will never happen.

Despite the way of the world, soulful cartolerie continue to dot the Milanese landscape, some catering to children’s school needs, others to offices. Some blur the lines between paper products and toys, others between stationery goods and art supplies.

As Joe Queenan laments in his newly published title, One for the Books, when bookstores are gone—and here, he might just as easily have said “Stationer’s Shops”—there will be no accidental bumping into things you didn’t know existed and didn’t realize you needed.

You walk into one of these stores thinking you need a pen, and leave realizing you also had to have something else—something simple and useful that felt right in your hand. Something with pockets. Something with a lock. Something with die-cuts. Something which was on the top shelf and had to be reached by ladder.

Specialty “designer” paper stores might survive in NYC, Kate’s Paperie being the one that springs to mind. (WAIT: I’ve just googled Kate’s only to discover that several Kate’s Paperies have closed in Manhattan, alas!) But the beauty of these stores is that they are not special. They are everywhere and they are the epitome of the “everyday.” They are still needed. They woo with the texture and functionality of products that belong to a continuous past that runs right into the present. Giving comfort. Ground. Familiarity. And something beautiful to write on.

So, I suppose the mail slot will remain in use a little bit longer, as well. Email is great, but there’s nothing like getting a real postcard to have and hold and hide in the pages of a book.

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Postcard #18: All funning aside


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The voting results are in!

I know. I know. We’re likely to see days of legal battles before we know who the next president of the United States is likely to be, but The Daily Cure/Harry’s Bar straw pole has reached a pretty definitive conclusion. According to the blogosphere, on latest count (November 3rd), at the actual Harry’s New York Bar in Paris, out of a total of 165 votes Obama was leading Romney by 32. That’s a pretty decisive victory, but not as decisive as this:

That said, this isn’t the United States. The Daily Cure is not a federal government with States running about doing as they please. There’s no Daily Cure Electoral College. And I have no lawyers, standing by. If only real life were so simple.

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Transitions/Color Story #8: A baguette travels to Italy

This wasn’t initially written as a poem
(I’m not a poet)
but it really wanted to look like one, so I obliged.

Every time we say we’re going to travel light.
And every time it’s like moving a circus complete with
elephants.
There’s the rabbit in her travel cage
with her litter and feed.
The dog, ancient but hanging on,
with her old-folks kibble, her mattress and
her blanket.
The children with their schoolbooks
(you wouldn’t believe how many),
toys-from-which-they-cannot-be-parted,
clothes for every eventuality and
voluminous personalities
that fill any car beyond capacity
particularly when an adult is simply in the mood
to contemplate the dotted line
and the pastures
and the peaceful cows grazing
along the drenched, autumnal route.
On the return, there’s the food we didn’t eat
but are too frugal to toss,
packed in insulated cool bags or not,
depending.
Lunch makings for hungry stomachs on the road.
A parting baguette which we pick up at the boulangerie
on the way out of town.
Lights out.
Gas off.
Water valves closed.
Doors locked.
Drawers, closets, and crannies checked for those things
that mustn’t be
left
behind—
glasses and retainers and
themes due on Monday.
Check.
Check.
Check.
And then the last part of the ritual:
saying goodbye
yes, out loud
to every room and favorite thing
including the enormous spider who lives by the kitchen door
standing sentinel and witness
until next time.

Posted in AROUND US, COLOR, FRANCE, ITALY, TRANSITIONS | Tagged , , , , , , , | 7 Comments

Cocktails and presidential polls

The Daily Cure is usually closed on Saturday, but this morning’s local paper, L’Yonne Republicaine, had a little article too good to pass up. Apparently, Harry’s New York Bar in Paris (5 Rue Daunue, or as the window announces to aid American pronunciation, “SANK ROO DOE NOO”) has been conducting a presidential “straw vote” since 1924.

In that time, Americans have been invited to present their passports and, assuming they pass muster, vote. The results of the Harry’s Bar vote have only erred twice in the history of the ritual. Before, after and during voting, one quaffs various concoctions and eats hotdogs. The Bloody Mary is recommended, I understand. (Rumor has it that The (actual) White House calls Harry’s Bar without identifying itself to see who is winning. It just might be true, don’t you think?)

I thought it would be fun to conduct our own straw poll here. This isn’t Harry’s Bar and I don’t have a liquor license, but all things being possible in the virtual world, let’s take a stab at it. You can be political with cocktail in hand. Only political. Or only cocktailish. Take your pick, and let’s see what happens! A tout à l’heure. And may the best man win.

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The Street #3: A walk in Burgundy

Yesterday in Burgundy, it was, in a word, wet. If jack-o-lanterns had been out grinning the night before, there was no sign of them. Gray skies, puddles, the first skeletal branches, and lingering green pressed in on all sides. It was cold enough for the fleece-lined Sorel’s I’ve been dragging around the globe with me for years. Wanted to give you a look, and a moment of quiet accented by your own breathing and the slap of your rubber soles on the wet road.

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Country textures please me. Delipadation. Log piles. Weathered wood. Boarded up doors, and window panes sealed with plastic. Here and there, order, dignity and elegance. Everything, in the end, has the beauty of a found object. Our existence seems less invasive here…here, things grow up around us. It’s up to us to fight back the weeds, but we always sort of fail. That is the beauty of this place.

[If you liked this Street Tour, you might enjoy seeing its opposite: The Street #1: Via Palermo, Milan.]

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Calendar: 30 days hath November

I was recently asked to design a calendar for a client. Within 48 hours, in which I submitted my estimate, the request was withdrawn, but not before I’d had time to research all the beautiful and ingenious calendars there are out there. I’ve started seeing calendars everywhere. The possibilities are endless: a google of ways to count our days and account for our time. Yesterday, while cleaning the kitchen, my eye fell on this little collection we’ve been keeping, and I thought, “Now, there’s a calendar in the making.”


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Postcard #17: Never forget.

First thing this morning, almost, I went downtown to the Picasso exhibit at the Palazzo Reale. Even though it doesn’t include “Guernica,” the show starts with a massive projection of the piece in the amazing Sala delle Cariatidi, the Caryatid Room. (A caryatid is a sculpted female form which takes the place of a column.) “Guernica” is about the horror of war, and contemplating the painting in this particular space is, to say the least, moving. The room, once a splendid ballroom for royal events, was heavily damaged during the bombings of World War II, and it was left that way so that anyone who enters it might remember…

The female figures that surround the space are missing limbs, breasts and noses—like the real, human victims of war. Damaged, ghostly goods, they urge even those of us who can’t technically remember (we weren’t alive yet) never, ever to forget. The room stands peeling, layers exposed, pitted and scarred. Yet it is, as empty spaces go, dignified despite the painful blasts it sustained. To see the projection of perhaps the world’s greatest artist’s interpretation of war in a space so defined by war tricks you into remembering that you too, in spirit, were there. That we all suffer wars. That the collective human spirit is damaged and disfigured by them. And that our best defense may well be to never forget this fact.

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On winter, chimneys and Arthur H.

“Now in Season” is usually reserved for edibles, but just this once, I’m asking my category to widen its horizons.

Fireplaces aren’t widespread in Milan, but the earthy smell of rising smoke fills my imagination if not my nostrils. The air is pregnant with winter. The tendency to hug one’s jacket tight is in full force, and although the sun is still shining, it’s doing so with flagging conviction. Grey days are ahead. Bitter cold. Wind. Snow. Bring it on! I can’t wait. It’s time to hunker down—while chimneys unfurl their woody messages—snuggled into warm blankets and even warmer voices…


Meet Arthur H., French, Tom Waits-like singer and piano player, performing his version of “Chim Chimney” (Chem Cheminée) from Mary Poppins. Check out his albums, and let yourself ride into his eclectic, smoke-filled musical space. Perfect company for shut-in winter days. Toss on a log, turn up the volume, and let your neighbors catch a whiff of your enviable hibernation.

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