Rust never sleeps

Are you ready for a weak hello, from far away, squeaking imperceptibly from the jaws of the tin-man? Because that’s what it feels like—finding my blogger’s voice after so long. “Sono arrugginita,” I’d say in Italian. I’m rusted. Rusted over. Immobilized by that beautiful crusty stuff that simultaneously gives our lives texture and warmth, while it weakens our strongest beams and monuments.

I’ve missed being here, in this space, sharing daily observations and gratitude. I’ve missed finding a reason to check-in and report on the various grazie ricevute. Blessings received. Near misses. Daily wonders and blunders. I’ve missed being in touch with you, hearing your voices.

Some other day, I’ll tell you “where” I’ve been. But today I just want to say that the rusty me is being recommissioned. I don’t know exactly how to begin, being rusty as I am. But, there, I already have. And, so, seeing as I’ve started, awkwardly, stiffly, once again to lumber into this world, let it carry on. From this day forward. Rust and all.

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Milan color story #5: Tutti-frutti

Hello all! I’ve categorized this “What we wear” as well as “Milan color story.” Both are leggermente misleading, because I’m not wearing these colors myself, at the moment, nor are these colors native to the city. But they certainly are EVERYWHERE right this minute. And I was taken with them while walking a couple days ago. So here we go! Fasten your eye-belts. They are quite the ride. And I love them.







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French country dogs

While photographing the gates for my earlier post several onlookers of the four-legged variety spied on me. At least, they tried to, despite the aforementioned gates.

This town is full of dogs you never really get to see. You hear the barking, then the rushing toward the gate—all part of the well-contained attempt to scare you away. And then, after you’ve imagined a ferocious beast, a sweet little snout appears in the gap between the dirt and the enclosure. Sometimes they carry on barking. Sometimes they whine. And sometimes you can hear a tail wagging on the other side: trespassing forgiven.

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Postcard #14: Bright lights big city

[You know you’re in a small town when the “big” town where you do your shopping looks like this.]

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An uncertain invitation.

I suppose if I had to name the greatest invention of all time, it would not be the wheel. But the door. It, alone, wouldn’t have led to the Industrial Revolution, but it issued the greatest metaphorical invitation of all time. Or the greatest shutting out. Depends on how you look at it.



Here, in our small French town and round about, there are such invitations at every turning. Barn doors. House doors. Secret entrances into meter-thick stone walls. Great wrought-iron affairs leading to tree lined drives and often shuttered-for-the-winter chateaux. But my favorite, at least today, are the small, waist- or chin-high garden gates that open onto courtyards, fields, alleyways, or just “some other space.” Modest. Rotting. Rusted. Neglected. Worn wood graced by a porcelain knob. Some wedged between cinder block walls, other between pillars grander than they are—they are all beautiful to me. They beckon, don’t they?—”come in, no, stay out, well, look but don’t touch”—but not with confidence. They murmur under their breath, most of all: “Maybe.”




[If you enjoyed this post, you might also like “The door within the door,” another one of my door-obsessed observations, this time from Milan.]

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Until next time

Certain features along the road say “hello” and “goodbye” like nothing else. This is one of them—Burgundy’s version of the red carpet, the welcome mat, the yellow brick road, the way here and (sadly) the way back home:

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Ghost type

These old French villages are full of ghosts. But my favorites are those that haunt the walls. Signs (literally) of things past. Hotels. Dairy shops. Jewelry and watch shops. Bakeries long gone or relocated. Typography is a passion of mine, and as spectacular as it is in many of its digital iterations, there is nothing that compares with these hand-painted beauties. I wonder who decided what font to use? I wonder who chose the colors? I wonder what hand painted them so steadily? Layers and layers of time, peeling away, fading before our eyes, some lingering a little longer as reminders of something that came long before us.







In this last window, the swallows have come back year after year to build their nests under the windows of the old watch shop. Collectively, they and their feathered ancestors have seen it all. The times of war and peace. The seasons of drought and plenty. The heat waves and the cold snaps. I wonder what memory they pass on to their babies, along with that incredible instinct to cross vast sweeps of our planet in the winter, only to return once again to that particular barn, or that old dairy shop. What do they make of the comings and goings, the painted words that one year are vibrant, another nearly invisible?

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A wagon full of warm

Last spring, I caught sight of this old man making his way home with a bit of scavenged firewood. I imagine he’s using it now. The wind is so cold. And so fierce when it whips up. An hour ago the sky was black and the beams were creaking. Now it’s serene. Not a cloud in sight, except for those harmless stragglers, skidding like dust bunnies before a brilliant moon. The smell of smoke is in the air. The wind pulls it out of the chimneys, sideways. Some of it is his.

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Oh joy—existentialism. No, seriously.

This post is dedicated to all the people I’m not with today, but to whom I always, always feel close. And as my third grade teacher used to say: “You know who you are.”

I used to make New Year’s Resolutions. I’ve stopped. I tend to make them around the 11th of February, when enough time has passed for me to reflect adequately on how it felt to end one year and start the other. Making resolutions and (God forbid) announcing them on the actual 1st day of the year feels to me like how it would have felt for the U.S. poet laureate to crank out the great collective national grief poem for September 11, 2001 on September 12th. It’s just not enough time to get a grip on the monumental.

And even if the events (great and small) of my tiny life are far less significant on the human stage as that one, they are still “biggies” for me. And I need to mull them over a little. Spending the holidays in Burgundy hasn’t helped fuel any sunny tendency I might have to conclude that I will “do better” this year on any number of fronts. Mostly, I’ll be happy to be alive at all.


Winter here is harsh—psychologically. Yesterday, it was warmer than usual, but today, there are low gray clouds screaming relentlessly across the sky. (Clouds usually scud, don’t they? But scudding is altogether too gay and carefree a word for what’s going on outside my window.) Gray takes on new meaning. So does dark. So does cold. So does damp. The houses in these medieval towns seem to hunch their stone colored backs in unison against the arctic chill, becoming one with its monochromatic face and breath as it bears down on them. As they’ve done for hundreds of years. And will continue to do.


It’s hard to sit at my little desk in this little window, knowing that I emit a warm yellow light to whomever might be looking in from out there, without thinking: It’s no wonder existentialism came to be in this country. It’s no wonder someone devoted an ism to the realization that what we get in life isn’t necessarily the promise of happiness (or even the pursuit of it, as is dictated in our American DNA), but the chance to just be.


When the sky is gray and the road is gray and the stone walls are gray and the tree branches are bare and the pigeons line up like shooting targets on the mossy summit of the 12th Century church, and it seems for all the world like there’s nothing to do but open another bottle of wine, finish the eternal game of Monopoly (agreeing to trade “Solar Energy” for New York so that the game can come to a calamitous end), petting the dog, and contemplating once again the deep shade of almost-black that’s overtaking the sky…when that is the way things are, sometimes day after day after day, you start to get it: there might not be much to do, but you are here to witness each passing moment of that nothing-to-do-ness. And to be the best witness-participant you can be.


And then, perversely, you feel good and the great gray knot starts to come undone from the inside out. And even though the world’s colors are mostly in hibernation, your inner lights are still shining in the full spectrum. Weird, that. Weird that in the gloom of the season you all of a sudden feel happy, just because you get to be huddled in the middle of it like everyone else. With everyone else. Though separately, of course, existentially speaking.

So I’m not placing any final punctuation on the resolutions that I’ll write come mid-February, though phrases are already forming in my head around the ideas of being a better mother, reading more books and watching less television, feeding my family healthier food, etc. But what I do know, is that my greatest resolution isn’t a resolution at all, but a realization. I get to be here. Now. And I’m really happy about that. And I’m going to try to remember that feeling. Yes. About that I am resolved.

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More earthiness

The posts will be short these days, as this is family time. And perhaps my creative energy, like the sun, makes itself available on a shorter schedule during these dark, northern winters. These are times for digging down, burrowing, reading the neglected book (mine is Jane Austen’s Mansfield Park).

These are also times for bucking that hunkering instinct and venturing out into the winter world only to realize it offers just as much as the summer one, but with more secrecy and reserve.You have to really look. And then you see the jewels of the season hovering under the obscuring fog: hoarfrost, abandoned seed pods, mistletoe in full force, and at least here in France, the glorious green of winter grass blanketing fields that lie still, gathering energy for what’s to come in the new year: oat, rapeseed, and wheat. Which is all to say that underground things are happening. Things are making ready. Things are alive. And some of these things, we eat.

Browsing the grocery store produce department the other day, I ran into some of them—winter vegetables that are hard to come by in Italy at all. It takes cold and a “cold culture” to know and love these knobbly edibles: parsnips, rutabagas, and turnips. I’ll be chopping these up together with onion, leek, garlic, carrot and Charlotte potatoes, then roasting them for 50 minutes or more in a hot oven, with a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkling of sea salt and a sage leaf or two. (The rosemary died. Otherwise, I’d use that.) I’ll toss once or twice during the roasting so that all the edges begin to take on the color of caramelization. Then I’ll tuck into that root-y, underground world of earthy tastes: surprising sweetness, a small nip of bitterness, and that something wonderful in rutabaga, garlic and parsnip that bites back.

P.S. I’d gladly add yellow or red beets, but all that’s available in the store is pre-cooked beets. And that won’t do.

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