Category Archives: ITALY

Chestnuts. Castagne. Caldarroste.

They’re here. Falling from the trees Spilling from boxes at the fruit and veg vendor. Bursting from their spiny skins. Bulging in the rough, burlap sacks that the street vendors buy in bulk. Each one a miniature work of art, … Continue reading

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Postcard #3: Arco Della Pace

[Most postcards that you find at the tobacconists are old, dusty, sepia things that depict the city’s monuments from a distance. They are cool, funky artifacts and they definitely capture that stately remove that—over time—becomes invisibility. I wanted to make … Continue reading

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Milan color story #1

Ochres and terracottas. These colors seduce my heart in the first days of Autumn. Perhaps because of the bittersweet interplay between their inherent warmth and the weakening power of the sun. (We cling to warmth wherever we can find it, … Continue reading

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Can I come in?

It’s a memory: I don’t live in Milan yet. But I’m visiting the city with one of my best friends, Keith. We’ve had a couple cocktails too many, and we’re roaming the swanky Via Senato aimlessly going I-don’t-remember-where. Keith’s eye, … Continue reading

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Tranquility

I have spent much of this blog writing about beautiful things, beautiful features, emphasizing the role of the editorial eye in maintaining a sense of well-being. But the truth about Italy is that its most beautiful possessions are in the … Continue reading

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p.s. Easy rider rentals

As mentioned in my previous post, bicycles are available throughout Milan for easy rental. I’d said they were free. And while this is completely and utterly in error, it is true that they are priced very reasonably. Please see the … Continue reading

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Easy riders, easy does it, Milanese style

One of my greatest joys in adult life is doing what I did as a ten year old—ride a bike. And I do it every day. It’s the preferred mode of transportation around here, as far as I can see. … Continue reading

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In season: Uva Americana

It’s the time of the vendemmia or grape harvest, and in all the markets now you can find this irresistibly, seductive fruit. A pulp, sweet at first, sour if you bite into it, which pops out of a rather thick … Continue reading

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In praise of the “grembiule”

It’s mid-September, and it’s been back-to-school for the past week. As in every country in the world, where children go back to school in the Fall, here too the air seems to change with the shift in our collective energy. … Continue reading

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Those tiny, ubiquitous details

One of the things I’ve said over and over about Milan, elsewhere, is that it’s not a typically beautiful Italian city. Not beautiful the way Rome is beautiful. Or Venice. There is a lot of beauty here, but it’s confined … Continue reading

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