Postcard #16: A lotta spice is nice

Being an expat is a peculiar arrangement. You live in country X, but you are forever bound to country O—”O” as in “origin.” Technology has made this a much easier affair. All the lovely webby ways that we are connected make the distances seem cozier indeed. Not to mention the Christmasy feeling of having packages arrive from abroad chock full of goodies, tastes of home…things that you miss.

Last week after ridiculous amounts of red tape with the Italian dogana (customs), I was finally able to receive a long awaited box with my name on it…arriving from New Mexico! It was full of chile powders, dried chiles and the makings of posole—all products made by a new client of mine, Los Chileros de Nuevo Mexico.

I’m not from New Mexico, but this is native stuff from my native land (in broad strokes) and I can’t wait to revisit these flavors that are so foreign to my adopted home. Italians use peperoncino all the time, and “hotness” is a part of the boot’s culinary vocabulary. But hotness here and hotness there just aren’t exactly the same…

What’s even quirkier about peppers flying from Hatch, New Mexico to Milan, Italy is that they were sent by an expatrioted Briton who calls my native land his home. If that’s not a small, spicy world/soup, I don’t know what is. They’ve even been kind enough to ask me to blog about gastronomic Milan on the travel section of their own new blog, The Chile Trail. Check it out…just another mad mix of ingredients in our global stock pot, where everyone spices up everyone else’s existence. I wouldn’t want it any other way.

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No martini, no Bond

This blog is called “The Daily Cure” because several years ago when I started it, I realized that just being in Europe sort of made me feel better in a lot of ways. And I began to catalog the small and large bits of evidence. I wander off the path every now and then, but that was the original idea. So, what does all that have to do with James Bond? Not a whole heck of a lot, except that in my pre-Europe years, I loved James Bond. I forgave him his womanizing (we all do, don’t we?), because his whole absurdly worldly, globe-trotting, sohpisticated, martini-drinking self was so immensely entertaining and capable of pulling me out of the deepest, darkest, baddest mood. James Bond made me feel happy.

Now the world of advertising and promotion—the very field in which I’ve made my own career (alas!)—has wreaked havoc on his sacrosanct image by having him drink Heineken in his next adventure, Starfall. I will not be watching the movie. Nor will I ever again drink a Heineken. Word has it, the beer-maker paid 40 million dollars for the right to screw with Ian Fleming’s hero and our iconic, European, feel-good Man. When anything can be bought, I say, “No.” Excuse me. Like him or not, James Bond is a classic, literary figure not to be rewritten because someone wants to sell more beer. It’s like doing a remake of La Dolce Vita with Jack Black in the role played by Mastroianni. Bad casting. Bad taste. Bad move.

I hope I’m not alone in this. It seems silly, in a way. There’s so much out there that’s really worth standing up for. Health care. Corporate decency. The end to child labor. The preservation of our natural heritage. Etc. And here I sit yammering on and on about the elegance of a martini glass vs. a green bottle with a red star on it. But in the end, it all comes down to the same thing. Some company with too much money in its pockets is using that money to ruin/undermine/erase something that matters to me—something that was writ in our common pop-cultural heritage—to enrich its own coffers. And that’s not OK.

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Some TLC for you

How are you feeling, dear Reader? Are you stuck between seasons? Do you have a runny nose or a tickly throat? Have you been hit, as I have, with your first flu of the season? Do you, regardless of your age, just kinda wish maybe a little that your mother (or that loving, tender person-of-your-choice) could take care of you? I thought so.

I brought this from France for you. Honey. Miel. It’s creamy. And I’m quite sure it’s full of good, natural, anti-bacterial, bee-magic. It will give you strength. And if not strength, a heaping dose of comfort. A giant spoonful in your morning tea will do the trick. Or slathered on your toast. And if you need an extra tuck into bed at night, plop some into a steaming mug of milk and rum.


Do take care. I’ll be checking up on you in the morning.

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My Primo love

The list of adult books I would read over and over (and over) again is not long. It includes Iris Murdoch’s The Sea, The Sea. Virginia Woolf’s To the Lighthouse. And The Worst Intentions by Alessandro Piperno. But the most loved of my dog-eared reads is The Periodic Table by Italian chemist, Primo Levi.

When my husband first gave me this book, my eyes rolled back in my head. A book about chemistry? Impossibile. I liked chemistry in high school, but I haven’t always enjoyed reading what scientists have written. String theory fascinated me (still does), and The Elegant Universe was a seductive title, but somewhere around page 150, I put it down for more tangible fare. Thus are my mind and heart: slightly fickle, definitely flawed and marked by a certain attention deficit. Primo Levi grabbed both my heart and mind with this poetic memoir and never let them go.

Levi tells significant parts of his life story through a series of essays, each based on one element of the periodic table as a metaphorical inspiration or a concrete point of departure. In this manner he forays into “elements” of his own being. Growing up Jewish in Turin. Being a prisoner of war (he was arrested for resisting Fascism). Surviving Auschwitz. Making his way through the field of chemistry. And falling in love. Not once does his science overwhelm his human-ness. Not once does his knowledge, so much greater than mine, taint his voice, or lead to off-putting academic virtuosity. He talks about life and reality with a steady hand on the emotional rudder and a bottomless reserve of sensitivity. He lived the life of a scientist, objectively observing the behavior of matter. And it is in the same fashion that he observes all the acts—both beautiful and beastly—both personal and universal—of human life and nature. It’s time to read it again.

The Periodic Table, 1975. Primo Levi. Available here.

From “Hydrogen”:

In school they loaded with me with tons of notions that I diligently digested, but which did not warm the blood in my veins. I would watch the buds swell in spring, the mica glint in the granite, my own hands, and I would say to myself: “I will understand this, too, I will understand everything, but not the way they want me to. I will find a shortcut, I will make a lock-pick, I will push open the doors.”

It was enervating, nauseating, to listen to lectures on the problem of being and knowing, when everything around us was a mystery pressing to be revealed: the old wood of the benches, the sun’s sphere beyond the windowpanes and the roofs, the vain flight of the pappus down in the June air. Would all the philosophers and all the armies of the world be able to construct this little fly? No, nor even understand it: this was a shame and an abomination, another road must be found.

From “Zinc”:

In order for the wheel to turn, for life to be lived, impurities are needed, and the impurities of impurities in the soil, too, as is known, if it is to be fertile. Dissension, diversity, the grain of salt and mustard are needed: Fascism does not want them, forbids them, and that’s why you’re not a Fascist; it wants everybody to be the same, and you are not. But immaculate virtue does not exist either, or if it exists it is detestable.

From “Iron”:

Sandro was surprised when I tried to explain to him some of the ideas that at the time I was confusedly cultivating. That the nobility of man, acquired in a hundred centuries of trial and error, lay in making himself the conquerer of matter, and that I had enrolled in chemistry because I wanted to remain faithful to this nobility. That conquering matter is to understand it, and understanding matter is necessary to understanding the universe and ourselves: and that therefore Mendeleev’s Periodic Table, which just during those weeks we were laboriously learning to unravel, was poetry, loftier and more solemn than all the poetry we had swallowed down in liceo; and come to think of it, it even rhymed!

From “Nitrogen”:

The trade of chemist (fortified, in my case, by the experience of Auschwitz), teaches you to overcome, indeed to ignore, certain revulsions that are neither necessary or congenital: matter is matter, neither noble nor vile, infinitely transformable, and its proximate origin is of no importance whatsoever. Nitrogen is nitrogen, it passes miraculously from the air into plants, from these into animals, and from animals into us; when its function in our body is exhausted, we eliminate it, but it still remains nitrogen, aseptic, innocent.

Thanks to Wikiquotes for the citations. Wikipedia also provides an excellent summary of book.

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Eggplant parmesan

I told you my posts would be briefer these days, out of necessity. And so they will. Ironic, then, that the topic of today’s post is a dish that isn’t quite so quick to whip up. But so yummy…and every now and then worth the extra time it takes.

I’m speaking of Eggplant Parmesan. Melanzana alla parmigiana. I’ve made various versions of this in my day. With breadcrumbs, without. With “enhanced” tomato sauce (i.e. with chopped onions), and with plain. With more or less mozzarella, and more or less parmesan. By grilling the eggplant instead of frying. Etc. Etc. But the best I’d ever eaten, up until a little while ago, hadn’t been made in my kitchen. It was made by the salumeria down the street, Alberti. I asked them their secret. And ecco, here it is: you soak the eggplant slices in milk.

1. Wash, and evenly slice a lovely firm eggplant. I like the stripy ones. I think they taste better, but that might be my eyes getting in the way of my tongue.
2. Place them in a colander lined with a cloth or paper towels and salt them lightly. Let them drain. Amazing how much water is in that spongy interior.
3. Place the eggplant slices in a shallow pan of milk (according to my neighborhood food geniuses, the milk does something wonderful and magical to the flavor of this bulbous nightshade, and in fact, it does seem to); coat them lightly in flour; and brown them top and bottom in a pan of already hot olive oil. Place them on another absorbent surface to rid them of excess oil. We don’t want that.
INTERMEZZO. This is getting long. Let’s take a break:

4. Slice a mozzarella and pop open a can of organic tomato pulp. Polpa di pomodoro. Honestly, the simpler the better. And if you don’t like the idea of it having been in a can, you can easily (with enough time) make it yourself.
5. In a large baking sheet, lined with parchment, start layering your Towers of Yum. Sauce on the bottom, eggplant, sauce, mozzarella, a grating of parmesan, eggplant, sauce, mozzarella, a grating of parmesan…Make sure you finish with that lovely sharp cheese, sprinkled generously on top.
6. Pop your beauties into a preheated oven and take them out when things begin to bubble and brown. A sprig of basil makes a lovely, edible rooftop garden for each.
7. Mangia.

NOTE: My neighborhood food geniuses also make this dish with zucchini.

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Beautiful, bilingual, macaronic mash-up

What I overheard
last weekend
coming from my
daughters’ bedroom:

It’s the kind of thing the older one says, with facility, howling with laughter. An alliterative, language-loving mixture of her two mother tongues. Something I could never hope to concoct, especially not on the spur of the moment. Not even on the spur of the best of moments. I’m just too brittle. To English-oriented. As much as I love Italian, after 15 years it still doesn’t pour smoothly from my lips, nor mix honey-like with the Queen’s English to produce anything close to that lovely, macaronic nonsense.

In those silly words, are hidden references to her favorite things. Fairy tales. Clarisse Bean’s dreadful teacher, Mrs. Wilberton, who famously and fatly cruises around the school on “trotters.” The tried and true wedding vow. Rosita “Bean Plant.” (We love fagioli.) The play on lawfully—”waffly” being an awfully insightful description of many marriages. And that fabulous last line, which makes even my old-married heart sing with hope and pride: wonder-wife. As if we are all wonder-spouses, despite ourselves, simply for walking into the waffly arrangement of matrimony with our eyes wide open.

[If you enjoyed this post, you might also like, “Let’s Talk.”]

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Milan color story #7: Metro-palette

I was scheduled to meet a friend last week at the Lanza Metro. We hadn’t seen each other in months and were long overdue for a cappuccino. I was early. So I parked myself above the steps leading out of the metro station and awaited her arrival.

Spare time is the mother of invention. Waiting, I watched and surreptitiously snapped pictures of people walking up out of the underground with their backs to me. I imagined I’d see a wild variety of hairstyles, a blitz of color. Now that fall is upon us, there’s all the more reason to wrap brightly colored scarves around our necks. And yet…Person #1 and person #2 were clad mostly in black, the Grand Master of Urban Colors. And person #3 emerged in a demure, light khaki trench.


What followed was a slow-paced parade of somberness splashed with red, as if every single citizen had coordinated him or herself with the palette and austerity of the subway station itself. It seems restraint and sobriety with a single-colored accent were the themes of the day. I wondered why. And then I looked at myself: grey and black. Go figure.





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“The Random-at-Best Non-Remedy”

I’m back. Again. It’s getting silly, isn’t it? I say I’m coming back, I stick around for a while, then I disappear again. What’s up with that? Well, I’ll tell you, my friends. In a nutshell, the problem is Time, or lack thereof.

A few months ago, I got an email from a friend asking, “Do you spend more time in France than in Italy now?” as she’d noticed that my blog posts were increasingly French in orientation and non-existent from Italy. The answer is “No.” It’s just that when I’m in Italy, where I actually live, I’m not on vacation. I’m presa as the Italians say (“taken,” “busied”) with motherhood, work, and just the nonstop business (or is that busy-ness?) of life, earning and keeping things going in a semi-well-oiled fashion. I’d thought that as my children got older, I’d have more time. Where on earth did I get that mis-guided notion? Time eludes me.

So the plan is to try to blog in and around the jigsaw puzzle of obligations because this blog falls, importantly, in the category of “things I do that feel good to me.” (We can’t always come last in our own list of priorities, can we?) But I will probably be posting items that are shorter, more visual…easier for me to get out.

The only problem that remains is that embarrassing title. “The Daily Cure.” First, I’m not curing anyone, no matter how much I wish that I were. And, second, my “daily” has turned into “randomly, at best.” Sigh. Sospiro. And that doesn’t make for much of a title—The Random-at-Best Non-Remedy—although it does have an interesting, if defeatist, ring to it. I suppose I’m not the only one struggling to make temporal ends meet, so I throw myself on your understanding and mercy. It’s always been my privilege to have you along for the ride, so I hope you’ll stay. Until next time (there’s that word again), a presto.

Posted in ITALY, SO NOTED | 4 Comments

Postcard #15: Auxerre in layers

[Dear You, Sometimes in these old European cities it’s hard to separate all the layers. Where does foreground end and background begin? Where does past stop and present start?]


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Confession #7: Hands across the water

I’m not Catholic, and I regard one’s beliefs as highly private despite the trend in American political elections, so this post isn’t about religion per se. It’s about what one religious icon says to me, over and over again, as I pass it on my summer meanderings…


In our small Burgundy town, near the bridge over the canal and the river (the Cure, after which this blog is named), there’s a small house about the size of a telephone booth. It faces the water, calling no attention to itself. Inside, behind a locked gate, is the figure of St. Nicholas in the act of saving a life. I have contemplated this figure many times. The local paper is full of harrowing tales of deaths and near misses involving the rivers and canals that cross the countryside (and, I suspect, wine consumption), so I’m sure this little fellow has more work than he can handle.


But it’s not the particulars of St. Nicholas or water safety that interest me. It’s the symbol itself of one hand reaching to another. And the presence of water. Half of my adult life has now been spent living overseas, so separation and distance are defining features of it. This would not be the first time I’d commented about missing people, if “missing” (the word being a gross understatement) were my subject. No. It’s the being “connected” part that I’m thinking of now.

I have many friends in difficulty right this minute. I don’t know if it’s our age. Or our Times. Or just the way Life is. I suspect it’s all of the above. But we need each other like never before. And as my grandmother used to say, and she meant it, “I may not be with you in body, but I am with you in spirit. Don’t think I’m not.” Her hand was always reaching out to mine even when, in a physical sense, it couldn’t. This is what our hands do. Metaphorically, of course. But sometimes the metaphor is as strong as the reality. And sometimes, even when we can’t be there, the reaching is necessary.

And so to my friends to whom I am so deeply connected and who may find themselves overwhelmed and drowning, my hand with all its human limitations and not one ounce of saintliness, is reaching across the water.

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