The favolosa—fabulous—bean

Before I moved to Italy, the only thing I new about fava beans was that Hannibal Lecter, Anthony Hopkin’s character in The Silence of the Lambs, had eaten them “with [someone’s] liver and a nice chianti.” Eww, how grizzly is that? It put me off them for a while. But when I got here, I saw how cute and how-very-like lima beans they seemed. I’m a Southern girl, and I missed lima beans, so I gave them a very enthusiastic try. Unfortunately, I was breast-feeding my first child at the time, and I didn’t realize (or I had conveniently put aside the fact) that eating such foods might give her colic. Ow! She cried all night for days after those fava beans, in such a tortured state was her tiny gut. Poverina. And we slept nary a wink—poveri noi—but I guess it served me right. I hadn’t followed the pediatrician’s instructions to the bean.

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Fast-forward thirteen years, and until last Tuesday, I’d never repeated the experiment. It seemed time, and the market was full of them. I remembered that they tasted nothing like lima beans, but I hadn’t remembered quite how beautiful they are in real life. The pods are plump, more generous than borlotti pods or pea pods. And when you open them, you understand why. Inside the bulbous casing, the beans lie nestled in a cushiony bed. Yes: it’s actually as if some agricultural sprite had lined each one with foam rubber. (We think we’re so smart, but Nature always gets there first.)

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Enough about how the beans look. It’s time to get to the taste. They are ever so slightly bitter; but, then again, you probably already knew that. Bitter in a nice way, in a lovely way. In a way that you tolerate, then like, then fall in love with. Hence my postpartum over-indulgence and my innocent baby’s suffering. They are, to be sure, an acquired taste, but as is often the case with acquired tastes, once acquired, they’re the subject and the object of passion, not merely of passing interest.

My reacquaintance with the fava went like this: An Italian chef  I adore who goes by the name Giorgione (i.e., his name is Giorgio, but he’s a very large man, hence the suffix), prepared them recently on his TV show with nothing more than crumbled pecorino, olive oil and a grating of black pepper. Let me repeat:

1. A handful of tender, small just-shelled fava beans, uncooked (mine were slightly too large, but next time I’ll know)
2.  A crumbling of the best pecorino you can get your hands on (Giorgone used a fresh pecorino, I used a slightly aged variety) but we are not talking the store-bought pecorino romano you grate over pasta. Go to your local cheese-person and ask his or her opinion. Experiment.
3. Olive oil. Something yummy. Not an insipid, pale cooking oil.
4. Sea salt (only if your cheese is of the very fresh variety and therefore less salty. As I used a slightly seasoned cheese, I added no salt whatsoever).
5. Pepper (grind away).

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Toss that all together, and I am telling you that you are in for a treat. The best kind of treat. The kind that requires very little labor, no cooking and a sublime mixture of ingredients that are each heavenly in their own right. But don’t eat too much, the uncooked beans might provoke a musical reaction if consumed out of moderation. (Best to eat them in the company of people you love who happen to love you. But, isn’t that always the best condition for dining?)

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NOTE: I’ve linked Giorgone’s name (in the above paragraph) to his Facebook page. If you understand Italian, I hope you enjoy it. If you don’t, I believe there are English translations available. In any case, his recipes are interesting and inspiring because they’re all based on what he finds fresh in his garden. Obviously, he’s close personal friends with pancetta and guanciale as well, but you have to love his dedication to the good things in garden and life.

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10 Responses to The favolosa—fabulous—bean

  1. Teresa Elliott says:

    These photos are so fine they’re edible unto themselves. brava! beans for dinner!

  2. Debra Kolkka says:

    I love broad beans, as we call them in Australia. We have to make the most of them while they are in season.

    • How do you fix them in Australia? I’m on the hunt for any and all possible concoctions…

      • Debra Kolkka says:

        I make a broad bean pate which is delicious. I cook and peel the beans, blend in a food processor with olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and a bit of grated Parmesan cheese. Serve with cracker biscuits or French bread.

      • I can’t wait to try that. It sounds really, really good. Do you make it perfectly creamy or does it remain sort of lumpy? I can imagine that once cooked the beans take on a sort of paté color, don’t they? They get brownish…

  3. EllaDee says:

    Your fava beans look divine, and I adore the way you’ve dressed them… I’m so tempted to try a tiny amount… I love beans, lentils but the after effects of eating even a small amount is torture.

  4. dayphoto says:

    I love beans…all kinds and all types. I’m not sure if those are available here in my tiny town on the Western slope of Colorado, BUT i wonder if I could experiment with other types here … oh probably not…but then again…why not. Hummm I wonder…

    Linda
    http://coloradofarmlife.wordpress.com

    • Hi Linda! I’ve been out of commission for a couple weeks but I’ll be back soon. Have been loving your blog. It makes me happy…I learned from Debra at Bagni di Lucca and Beyond (she’s in Celi’s fellowship too) that fava beans are also called broad beans…I’d never heard that before. Do you maybe have broad beans?

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